Digital crack!

Just a fast news; I don't have much time, I should be "working" now - I am one of the 4 trainers who are taking care of 25 young Sloveinan climbers on "climbing holidays" in France. But yesterday, when I had to take 2 climbers from Ceuze to Chamonix (to take part at the World Cup), I ask the cheaf coach for a day off. I took advantage of hot weather and jump up to Aiguille du Midi to get some fresh air:-) With Nico we went to take a look at the Digital crack 8a. And finally, when it passed in the shade (too hot on the sun!!!) we both DID IT!!! Great!

And now back to work:-)

Finally in the granite of the Mont Blanc massive!

Les Houches, 5th of July: Let me start there where I've finished my last blog entry – with the weather. In the last weeks it was really extreme; from the enormous quantities of rain, freezing cold to unbearable heat. It’s not easy to adapt to these drastic changes!

After the week of rain, when I almost got depresses, because there was no dry peace of rock left in Haute Savoie we decided with Nico to go to Ceuze, from where I got optimistic news from Nina Caprez: “ It’s dry and “ça colle” (means that it’s cold and that there is a good friction). Nina is really a great source of motivation, positive energy, determination – it’s great to climb with her. We both did our “croix”, Nina Chirurgien de crepuscule 8b and a 60 m long Black Beans 8b+ and me my first 8a+ in Ceuze Poinçonneur de Lilas 8a+ followed by L'ami cahouette 8a. From not normally cold Ceuze we went to Millau, to traditional Natural Games. Rock climbing event was not as well organized as the years before, also the number of participants was lower, the atmosphere not the one we were used to. Maybe we were spoiled form the great organization from the previous years and we expected too much… Anyway we spent a good time at the rocks, on the “official” rock climbing day we did with Nina the Ultimate route in Boffi, this year “just” 8a+ and the next day, where there was a boulder competition at 12h, on the boulders totally exposed to the sun (I think there was 50C), we decided it’s more clever to go to Gorge du Tarn. We had a successful and “good vibes” afternoon – everyone did his or her “crux”; Gerome Pouvreau - Oeil de Budha 8b, Mickael Fuselier - Tennesee 8b, Nina Caprez- Priez our nous 8b, Florence Pinet - A biciclette 8a+, all in the 2nd attempt, and me Bullfrog bulevard 8a on sight. I think our notparticipation at the boulder competition was justified with these ascents:-)

Back to Nico in Chamonix! Weather finally got stable, so I got the opportunity to climb in the granite towers of the Mont Blanc massive. I was waiting for this for more then a year!

The first problem I had to cope with was the altitude I was not used to. Ayayay, how loud and fast my heart was beating and how I was gasping for some air during climbing! Luckily I quickly got used to the lack of oxygen and began to enjoy in the 1st class granite of the South Face of Aguille du Midi (3842m). For my first route Nico chose a nice but not the easiest rotue: Super Dupont has one hand-finger crack graded 7b. Since my last crackclimbing experience in Yosmeite in 2008 I forgot how to jam my fingers, so I didn’t succeed it on sight, but in the second go.

Two days later I went with Guillaumom Magnan to another classic on the Point Adolphe Rey (3535m), Policier des Glaciers, 200m 6c+. Nice, nice!! I am excited to discover more of the great cracks up there, but to do something more difficult I will need some more acclimatization. I felt these during a long hike…my lungs were longing for more air!

For the weekend I got some mountainguide experiences; I joined Nico when he took his 2 clients to Aguile Purtscheller (3475m). Responsible job, being a mountainguide!

Sunday we spent down in the hot valley. I had one route in my mind since April and I wanted to do it: L’attaque de la moussaka geante in Suet. 8b (8b+ in the topo, 8a+/b for the locals, 8b for me). In April, when I tried it for the 1st time it was too cold and I couldn’t feel my fingers coming on the crux moves. Yesterday it was a completely other story; It was hot and humid as in a sauna, and I was slipping from every hold. Not ideal at all. Maybe those days on the altitude helped me to do it; there was more oxygen and I was not so pumped! Cool!

France-Slovenia-France

Les Houches, 15th of June: I was a bit lazy for writing in the last month. But this doesn't mean that nothing was going on!

I forgot to translate Slovenian Buoux blog into English, so I will begin this one more then one month ago, to make a quick review.

Weekend Escalabuoux, international climbing meeting was really fun. Climbing in the newly reopend sector Face Ouest, that has been closed for more then 20 years…..OK, I said quick review…I could write a roman about every day there. Great, technical routes, “joke” grades (JB Tribout said to me about one really hard 7b; “The grade is a joke. We did a lot of jokes like this in the 80’s”), cold weather, great conditions, two finger pockets, one finger pockets, painful pockets, many climbers, good vibes…

Then it was time to go to Slovenia after 2 months, to accomplish my obligations to Slovenian Army, that employs me. No, I didn’t have to shot wit ha gun, I needed to do some promotional work.

Chess Bitches…You will ask yourself what king of a swearword this is:-) Here the answer; It’s an amazing route in Warmbad (A), opened by Michael Nedetzky. It’s been a long time I was not so motivated to climb one harder route (8b/b+). I tried it a day before my visit to the dentist. I found it really challenging, not really my style (quite steep, short, without good rests), but still I felt I could do it. But then I was stopped by the dentist, actually by the fact I was operated and had 10 sutures in my mouth, and obliged to eat antibiotics, which equals with resting…

Climbing conditions were perfect, fresh, which was frustrating, because I only had this route in my mind. Some days before my departure back to France I was again ready to climb hard, I did some good attempts in the route, but this was not enough to clip the anchor. Anyway the weather conditions became hot&humid, which made thing even harder…So I left to France with one unaccomplished project. I could try it more, but I was missing Nico too much, three weeks seemed like eternity! The route will wait.

So now I am back in Chamonix, waiting for good conditions to climb cracks in the granite towers of the massive of Mont Blanc. But since one week it’s raining every day, mountains are wrapped in the clouds and fog. So we are only sport climbing in different spots of Haute Savoie (Luth, Suet, Sur Le Mont, Col de Montets). They all have one common point; the grades are often “a joke”. We say this 7c would be 8a+ on Kalymnos! No discount in the areas of Haute Savoie!

Taghia 2010

In the last two years I was not very lucky with climbing in Taghia. When I was there for the first time in October 2008, it was raining and snowing, so we were able to do only two short easy routes. Last year, having already bought a plane ticket, I broke my ankle and had to stay at home. Also this year our departure was uncertain until the last moment, due to the »angry« Island's volcano. But finally we made it!

For the two weeks that we spent in the idyllic village of Taghia, lost in the Moroccan High Atlas, Nico made quite an ambitious plan containing 5 long hard routes. To realize it, we wouldn’t only have to climb really well, but would also need some luck with the weather. I told him that I would be happy if we do one of the routes from his list.

And indeed, the first week the weather was really capricious. Hot, humid with early storms which forced us to retreat from two routes, L'axe du mal 500, 7c+ and Sul filo de la notte 550m, 7c+, after having successfully climbed already 10 and 6 pitches. A pity! Both routes are in the amazing wall of Tadrarate (2803m). The limestone there is really of great quality, almost Ceuze like.

Since you have to walk to its base almost 2h, we hired a Berber porter, and moved in the cave at the base of the wall for 4 days. So we were able to start the routes really early and well rested. Those days in the narrow canyon, where you can only see 5% of the sky, where you hear nothing but the roaring of the river, were literally a switch off of the outside world.

One we finally had luck, there was no rain so we managed to climb one route to the top of the wall. Le Rouge Berbere, 560m, 7b. It’s a traditional route, which goes up the crack system in the right side of the wall. First pitches are a bit “Triglav like” (crumbly rock), but then you reach the crack which almost make you think that you are in Indian Creek! Lots of handcraks, even more offwiths (luckily with good footholds around) and chimneys. Charged with two sets of Camalots (until 4.5) we managed to onsight the whole route. But it was adventurous! In one pitch I spent lots of time looking for the bolted belay, which actually didn’t exist…Sport climber in a traditional route:-) After about 11h we finally reach the summit, where we were stunned by an amazing landscape of high plateau. Cushions of violet, yellow, white flowers among grey rocks in the light of the sunset… But we didn’t have lots of time to enjoy the view; there was a long descent in front of us. Finding berbers’ via ferratas is not easy, specially not in the dark! It took us another 3 hours to find the way to Said’s gite in Taghia. Looong day!

One of the routes that we wanted to climb was Babel (7c+) in the 800m high wall of Jbel Tagoujimt n'Tsouiannt (2977m), which was opened in 2007 by A. Petit, N. Kalisz, T. Gentet and S. Bodet. The route is famous for being exposed (bolts very far apart). Already Yann Ghesquiers, who repeated the route shortly after it had been opened (so there was some chalk), said that he was afraid of falling on some ledges. In the topo, the 2nd pitch, 7b is named “Test n2”. With Nico we passed the first “exam”. 7a, 35m, 5 bolts, but we couldn’t pass the second one. Climbing up the grey, dusty slab, without the trace of the chalk, we reach the point about 6m above the 4th bolt the next one shining far above. With not very good holds in the hands and feet posed only on the friction (without friction because of the dust) we didn’t dare to take a risk and search for the next holds. The fall looked to dangerous and the belayer clipped to the anchor couldn’t really make it more dynamic. After about an hour of trying to win the fear we gave up and rappel down.

We didn’t have to search for a long time for the new project; Arnaud Petit and Sylvain Millet had just opened a new route in the Cascade wall and named it Babybel. Maybe Arnaud, when giving the name, had in his mind those who don’t have enough of “guts” to climb Babel:-) The fact was that we really liked the route, it’s better equipped (you sill have some fear from tile to time:-)), and most of all more steep, maybe the steepest multipitch route in Taghia at the moment. It’s very sustained, and the grades without the discount:-) 7c+, 8a, 7b+, 7b+, 7c, 7c. Since we didn’t manage to onsight the pitches, we progressed quite slowly, and the night caught us on the last pitch. In the dark I came surprisingly high; when you don’t see the holds you always hope that the next one is a jug, so you don’t give up:-) I fell on the final crux. We rappelled down and the next day make a steep hike through the Tire bouchon to the top of the wall, rappelled to the last pitch and did it in 1st attempt. It’s really a masterpiece!

The time in Taghia passed by too fast. The walls over there are soooo great!!!. Everywhere you look you see the line that makes you dream about….But unfortunately the time and energy are limited, so the routes will remain a dream for some more time.

And of course it’s not only the great rock that makes Taghia special. It’s most of all the fact that the place is so remote and quiet, far from all modern technologies. People there are really friendly; they generously offer you delicious bread with olive oil and menthe tea. But their life is hard, especially the one from the women. It’s only them who work on the fields, carrying heavy loads of rye, wheat and woods… And 6 years old girls are playing in the village with little baby brother of 2 months wrapped in the kerchief attached to their back… Unbelievable!



For french speaking, here is some more info:
target="_blank"> http://jmc-crew.com/ListNews.php



There are more photos in the gallery Morocco. Taghia 2010

Winter doesn't want to give up!

Chamonix, April the 12th:Last weeks were marked by the cold! I haven't got that cold for quite a while. I hate climbing with cold feet and fingers, stiff body, many layers of clothes; I feel as it was not me who’s climbing! I was looking forward to T-shirt climbing in south of France, but I came into a real winter!

With Nicolas we spent one week in Verdon, where we wanted to free climb an old aid route in the Paroi Rouge, Casatapiagne Rouge. The route was equipped by additional bolts and freed by Bruno Clement. It’s graded 6a, 7c, 7c, 7b+, 8a, 7b+, 7c+. But in 2009 aid climbers removed the bolts. Kind of a little war between free and aid climbers:-).

So we equipped ourselves with new bolt plates, set of camalots and we walked through the icy cold water of the tunnels of Sentier Martel that lead to the base of Paroie rouge. The quality of the rock is not as good as in the classic grey Verdon limestone, so climbing there has some “alpine” taste.

The crack of the L2 and L3 looked impressive! It took us quite a while to put the bolt plates back, which are not really numerous, 8 until the end of the third pitch! So camalots were necessary too. I was enjoying placing the gear after quite a while, putting the tapegloves on my hands and jam. But I found the crack really difficult! Not only it’s the size I don’t master at all (0,5), it’s also a bit dirty, slippery, foot holds are breaking... Adventure! Nico liked it a lot and freed the second pitch right away. But then the thunderstorms, strong wind and unbearable cold stopped us. We quitted our project at the end of the third pitch, and went to Courchon, a great climbing area above Moustieres exposed to the sun and protected from the wind. I was like a snake warmed up by spring sun, feeling flexible and finding my climbing feelings again.

Last week we wanted to do another multipitch route, La distraite, 180m, 8a+, this time in Pressles (Vercors). One week before, when we stopped there on our way to Verdon, the route looked dry, but when we came there this time, ALL Pressles was soaking wet, and it was raining like hell (don’t rely on the weather forecast!). The most reasonable solution was to drink a coffee in Pont en Royans, sit in the car and drive back to Chamonix. An expensive coffee :-)

Willing to climb multipitch routes we decided to tempt Les dents de l’amer, technical “old school” route in the wall of Balme aboue Cluses. 7b+, 6c, 7c+, 7c+, 7c+. I think we were first climbers in this route since quite a while. We had to brush the dust and the moss from the tiny little holds. I like this kind of precise, technical, vertical-slab climbing, so I was enjoying a lot. Nico, preferring steep, powerful routes, was swearing a little bit (as I did in the cracks of Castapiagne rouge), but at the end began to like it. The first day, after I freed all lower four pitches, we were stopped 15m under the top of the wall, on the crux of the last pitch, where 2 crucial holds were wet. So we had to abseil back down.

Yesterday, after cold and windy morning climbing in Superbalmette, where we did nice route Pilier 8a, we decided to go and check of the holds of Les Dents dried up. We approached the wall from the top. I cleaned some grass and soil form the small cracks, dried the holds with my t-shirt, found a solution for the crux and then sent the pitch in the first go.

We want to come back to free all the route in a day! But it's snowing again:-(

Climbing team from Slovenian Armed Forces World's best!

Courmayeur, 23rd of March:From 20th to 25th of March, 1. Winter Military games are taking place in Aosta Valley (I).

For the first time indoor sport climbing was part of this huge event, which meant that after more then three years of no-competing I was back »on the stage«.

It felt strange to be back in the isolation zone, have 6 minutes to observe the route, be careful to warm up well, visualize the route, feel your heart beating loudly in the transition zone, hearing the cheering from the spectators, feeling the ambience in the competition area, trying to calm myself down on the first meters of the route, and then finally just climb, do my best.

First day I felt a bit »not on the right place«, but the next day in the semifinal, the feelings from 17 years of competitions woke up, so in the final I even enjoyed:-)

The first place was reserved for Maja Vidmar, who “walked” up the routes. I didn’t know what to expect, not climbing much indoor in last time. Normally strong young Christina Schranz (AUT) should be 2nd, but she did a mistake in the final (forgot to clip), so it was between me and Marion Poitevin to fight for the silver. We were very close in all rounds, and also in the plus in the semifinal that brought me silver medal. I was happy, especially because I didn’t like the very steep line of the final route, and I really had to do my best to get as high as I did.

Klemen Bečan had a stronger concurrence then Maja. There were 8 World Cup climbers and the superfinal was needed to decide the winner. Klemen was just a little bit better then Kilian Fischhuber, followed by Flavio Crespi and Tomaz Mrazek.

Today the sun showed up after some depressing rainy days in Courmayeur, and we are going to the ROCK!!!! without any competition pressure!

Some photos from my

I spent two great weeks on Florida! 2hours of wind tunnel and 33 jumps in Z-hills and Deland. Feelings when flying are simply amazing!

The colonnetts and ski touring

Mojstrana, 23rd of February

Last two weeks in France were again varicolored. After two days of climbing rest in Chamonix, we returned to Seynes, being almost the only climbable rock climbing area in south of France. All around there were strong snowfalls, including Nice, but in Seyenes there was even some sun that warmed up the really cold air (and rock).

With Nicolas we did some more of the major lines of the area, which offer really nice climbing (even thought that there are some chipped holds – which usually represented the crux of the route for me).

We did Collone d’Hercule 8a+, La 32 metres 8a+, Nico added La bagnoles sur Seynes 8a+ (very “morpho”) and Dinosaurs’ concurrence, slightly harder Brontosaure 8a+, 40m!. This is really an amazing route! The first part is a bouldery 7c+, very physical, followed by another amazing tufa and an endurance final bulge on small pockets. I fell off on the very last part, with my forearms more then empty from climbing five days in a row. But anyway I was very happy to be able to climb over the nicest part of Brontosaure.

Last week was white colored; we were back in Chamonix, and not to forget Slovenian I got in touch with Slovenians who were at vacations there. They took me to a great skitour to Col des Chasseurs. Tina do Batista was our guide, and in the meantime her boyfriend Tomaž was changing nappies to their 6month old daughter Ula:-)

On my last day in France I was again in Bionnassay, where the debt from previous visit was waiting for me; Trait d’union 8a. It has a very bouldery section that posed me quite some problems, also because the holds in the corner stay in the shade the whole day, and I couldn’t feel my fingers. But hand warmers in my chalk bag helped me. Nico also did his “crux” on Loi de Murphy 8a+, having to dry crux holds with a gas burner before. If the conditions are not perfect, you can make them like this.

Now I will put my climbing gear in a corner for 2 weeks, switch it with the parachuting one. Florida!!!!

Dinosaure!

Chamonix, 9th of February: After spending two weeks in Slovenia, when I actually climbed more in Croatia (Kompanj), I am once again in France. For many years I have been feeling like at home here and now having a boyfriend in »the land of good rocks and vine:-)«, I feel even more »chez moi«.

From cold and snowy Chamonix we escaped down south again. This time we had luck. There were dry and sunny rocks waiting for us. I felt like a snake, when its blood becomes warm and can move normally again!

We visited two climbing areas, where I was first 16 and last 12 years ago! How the time flies! Seynes and Claret are ideal for cold (but clear) winter days. Totally south facing, they offer good, warm climbing the whole day long. It can quickly become too hot! Indeed I was waiting for the sun to set, to do some routes with small crimpers.

On the vestibule wall back home I have a photo of me, 16 years ago, climbing Peggy la cochone 7c. I couldn’t do it that time so I said to myself that I have to do it now. I don’t like having photos from the routes I didn’t climb. This time in worked. On sight! :-)

Other route that has been stirring up my imagination for years was Dinosaure 8a+. I saw it first on the cover of one of the first Grimper magazine; Robin Erbesfield on unique dinozavers’ tail shaped tufa! I really wished to do this, masterpiece route of Seynes! It didn’t go fluidly, but after 3 attempts and some days of waiting until it gets dry (there was some strong rain in the night), I finally did it. It’s not just another 8a+. It’s Dinosaure. Feels great leaving the area with its tail in the pocket:-)

I kept Claret in my memory as area with routes difficult to onsight and with huge run-outs! It didn’t change in 12 years. But with Nico we were in the company of local climbers, so they flashed us over the routes, which is quite easier. But still the bolts are far apart. We went to one of the classic 8a’s, Macao. Nico flashed it, I was a bit too small for their “recipe” and had to find my own solution for amazing overhanging corner. On the final run out, where there’s not a bolt for ages, I was soooo pumped that everybody, including myself saw me already flying over ¾ of the wall. But I will go skydiving in two weeks to Florida :-), so I gathered all the forces to hold on the pockets and finally clip the anchor. Ufff!

Yesterday I beat my personal altitude record once more. In a touristic way:-) With the gondola to Aiguille du Midi 3842m. But the skiing down the Valle Blanche didn’t feel so touristic for my legs:-) We had to make quite some stops. Nico knows these places as his own pocket and he showed me many great granite walls with amazing cracks. Can’t wait for the summer to do them!

Enjoying indoor and outdoor

Already for some years I am wandering how comes we aren't able to build a decent indoor climbing center in Slovenia. There are so many abroad and they surely a successful investment; specially during short and cold winter days there are crowds of climbing enthusiasts.

Bad weather forced me to climb more indoor then usually. But on a good quality walls and very well set routes I was enjoying as I haven’t been for a long time on indoor structures. I was the most impressed by the new climbing center in Saint Julien en Genevois, http://www.vitamparc.com/fr/page/pr-sentation-d-taill-e-3 , they built a 15m high structure with 1300m2 of climbing surface which offers enough place for 160 routes from 3a to 8c. And all this in the middle of a huge shopping center!



Let’s go to the nature now. Last week I was a multisport athlete. Good snow conditions enticed me to do put on the skies. First the cross country ones and later on also the alpine. After 2 years! It felt like an obligation to visit ski resort of Grand Montets, where a gondola lift takes you up the 3300m, and then you can enjoy on perfectly prepared pistes or you can have some more adventures if you go off pistes over the glacier, which we did with Nicolas. My thighs were quickly “soft”, partly due tu the high altitude I was not used to, partly because of my ski non-shape :-) So later on I enjoyed on “tourists” pistes with the amazing view on the highest European mountains.



And believe it or not, during my staying in Chamonix I was also rock climbing. And I was not cold!

Even thought it was -13 degrees C in the valley in the morning, we visited climbing area of Bionnassay on 1500m of altitude. The approach is a little unusual for sport climbers; we had to wade through deep snow up the steep forest for about 40min; one needs mountain shoes and sticks, in case of some ice crampons are also very welcome! Coming under the wall felt as if a season had changed. The area is exposed south and the sun warmed up the rock so much that I even did my first 8a in 2010, Superbrouillon in a T-shirt!

Rainy Newyear's climbing trip

Once again I am behindhand with my news…

With one sentence I could describe the month of December like this: bad weather and a desperate searching of dry rocks to climb at.

It started already in Slovenia, when Nicolas visited me for ten day. I couldn't even show him our highest mountain Triglav, under which I live, so cloudy and rainy it was! So we were climbing on the artificial walls and three times in Slovenian most rainproof climbing area, Misja Pec. I warned Nico, how crowded and polished the area became in last years, so he was prepared for slippery holds and quite enjoyed in. But I couldn't. Because I know how great it was to climb in Misja 10 years ago. It's really a pity that the holds became so dirty and polished, but I don't see any other solution rather to go somewhere else.

We moved to France. We were looking forward to climb in great climbing areas around Carpentras where his grandparents are living. Buoux, Saint Leger, Cimai, Seynes… We thought we would do some nice cruxes, but it turned out as the worst climbing trip (in a sense of climbing conditions) I’ve ever had. First it was extremely cold. -6 in the shade. In Buoux even the sun didn't melt the snow! I couldn't even feel the holds with my frozen fingers and toes. But we did some nice (and only) photos with the blue sky in the background.

Snow was followed by a long period of strong rain that soaked all the areas with tufas, so the selection of places to climb became quite narrow. Also the rocks that are in the shelter and apparently dry, attracted the humidity and holds seemed to be as someone would put oil on them (Laurmarin, Paroie rouge in Verdon, Saint Leger).

We were driving around searching for dry routes like crazy, without luck. Shall I just list the areas we visited that are normally perfect for winter climbing; Concluses, Saint Leger (Praniania), Dentelles de Montmirail (Clapis in Saint Christophe), Buoux, Lourmarin, Aiglun, Verdon (Pont Soleil, Labo, Licee, Paroie Rouge), Teillon, Gache.

Now I am in Chamonix, enjoying some winter sports and climbing on an artificial wall. Feels good to touch dry holds and feel them!

Bloomy 2010

To all visitors of my website, I wish a happy, bloomy year 2010!



P.S.

I will soon write some more about my last rainy climbing trip in the South France.

Some 8a to finish the roadtrip

The obligations at my work – in the sport unite of Slovenian Army, are the reason that I came back to Slovenia after almost one month climbing with Nicolas.

The auto route over Italy seemed much longer than on the way to France…



After coming back from Sardinia we stayed for one week more in Spain; before heading towards mountains, I full field my skydiving passion with two jumps in Empuriabrava. A drop zone with a great and friendly atmosphere!!!



We wanted to climb in Montgrony, but at the time it was too hot! Like in an owen. Unbelievable! So we moved further inland to shady Tresponts. We did some 8a’s over there, Nicolas his 100th one! Mites moderns 8a, El Batec 8a+, Alt Urgell 7c+/8a on sight…

But we both agreed that the routes there don’t have a character. So, after the temperatures dropped, we returned to the colorful tufas of Montgrony. The most prominent route there, Aromes de Montgrony 8a+ was the one that occupied me for two days and still I had to left Spain without it on my tick list. Three times I fell with the jug in front of my nose! I want to come back and do it! Those tufas are unique!

At the end of the trip I was quite tired, I didn’t have lots of “fuel” left, so I was really happy in Saint Guilheme (FR) to do Rouillee jeunesse 8a+ in 2nd go. Besides this I fleshed Faut que ca baigne 7c+ and redpoited Destatification 8a in 2nd go.

So much about numbers and “official” climbing affairs. You can imagine that everything was even nicer seen through my enamoured eyes:-)

Climbing with the one you love

I will start with the thing that is the most important for me in the last month; I met a boy that I was looking for for a long time – a French that is as crazy about climbing as I am.



After climbing in Verdon in the end of September with Nicolas Potard, and not missing a lot to complete our project – Ramirole (8a+/b, 8a, 8b, 8a+, 6c), I was able to stay at home just for a week. Not only we wanted to be together again, we also wanted to make one more attempt in Ramirole. So I sat in my car and in 7h I was in Chamonix, from where we started a longer roadtrip over south of France, Spain and Sardinia.



In Verdon the conditions become winterlike. In the morning it was freezing, what had exceedingly changed the conditions in the wall that never sees the sun. For me it was way too cold, so I was more or less fighting with numb fingers. For Nicolas it was perfect, the grip was much better than two weeks ago and so he managed to climb all the pitches in two days. Also I was satisfied at the end – I fell just under the chain of the 8b pitch and began to believe that with 10 degrees more I could do it.



I have to mention also a great achievement from Swiss climber Nina Caprez, who freed all the pitches on a very cold day after just four days of working it. CONGRATULATIONS!!!



After Verdon we moved to warmer places – to Siurana where the Petzl team meeting was taking place. This time the main purpose was social gathering, climbing – having fun, and taking photos. We climbed in Siurana and Margalef and in the evening enjoy delicious meals prepared by Tony Arbones mum after what we watched some movies about Petzl team member’s adventures.



Jump on the plain and in less then an hour we were on Sardnia where we were invited by Maurizio Oviglia. In Roccadoria (NW) they organize a meeting called Aqua e roccia. I was really excited to disover a new great climbing area of the island! The routes are very varied in a style; from Manolo’s technical slabs to really steep routes reminding me on those in Isili. My “task” was to climb the new route that Maurizion bolted fot the occasion. First I had to found the hol(d)s, bruch it a little bit. In the 2nd go I fell above the crux together with a big jug in my hand. So the first accent was made by Nico, I managed to do it half an hour later. We graded it 7c+ and named it Nicotina – the combination of our names.



Last days on Sardinia we were guest from Peter Herold, an English climber that has benn living on Sardinia for some years now. He is a treasure for climbing information. So he suggested us some nice routes and new areas. First we climbed on Punta Giradili over the route Inteligenzza emotiva (280, 7c max). Unfortunately we both fell on one not very evident 7b pitch, but we onsigthed all the others.The view on the coast, sea, Pedra lunga was amazing. The last two days we were climbing short routes in sectors around Baunei. We did two 8a, Sei troppo Avanti and Poldo, both in 2nd attempt.



I would like to thank to Peter and his wife Anne for their hospitality, delicious meals and transportation services!

Ramirole - totally crazy route!

I again spent two weeks in France, in the amazing gorge of Verdon.



In July, when I was climbing there in the sector Baume de Cavalieres with Charlotte Durif, I was amazed by the steepness of the multipitch routes there. From the anchor of Papy que devers I was observing a line of steep tufas on the right, all equipped with the quick drawers, which were hanging far from the wall.

It was the route Ramirole ( http://www.chadurif.fr/topo/ramirole/La_Ramirole.pdf ), equipped by who else than Bruno Clement- Graou and consecrated to the French climber Marie Laure Beghin, who died in an avalanche in 2007.



The difficulty of the 140m long route is accordant with its very steep line. All but the last pitches are in grade 8. ( 8a+/b, 8a, 8b/+,8a+, 6c). What gives the route its’ “strong character” is the fact that it’s cca 60m overhanging!



Sure I was tempted to try it, but I had too much of a respect for it, I considered it was too hard for me; steep routes are not my strong point. But then Nicolas Potard motivated me to go, and I said to myself, »Why not? If nothing else, it might be a good training«



It helps a lot, when you are to extremely motivated climbers to work in the route together. Finding different solutions, talking about moves in the evening, making tactics for the next day. The route absorbed us!

All together we spent 6 days in the different part of the route. We fixed some ropes, so we could approach the hard pitches quite fresh and with enough skin on the fingertips (the sharp tufas are “skin eaters”).

I managed to climb all but one (the third) pitch. The 8b literally soaked me up; In my only real attempt, after climbing lower 8a+/b and 8a, I climbed till about two thirds of the pitch and fall totally exhausted, hardly being able to come to the top from bolt to bolt. Nicolas was closer to success in this “pitch of the pitches”, but his forced were gone just under the last bolt.

We both agreed that we definitely have to come back, and in the meanwhile train hard to get more endurance in the steep climbs like that.



After topping out the last day, we got a great opportunity to observe BASE jumpers while their first BASE jump. Because of the steepness, this wall is “safe” to learn BASE skills….Only watching them jumping raised the level of adrenalin in my body! How’s the feeling when you are standing on the top, watching the river Verdon down and then 3, 2,1, jump??? I would really like to try this once. Would be a perfect day to climb the total of Ramirole and then jump down! I hope this dream will come truth one day.



To rest our bodies and mind from the steepness of Ramirole, we follow the recommendation of Graou and went in another route, also dedicated to Marie Laure – La voie de Marie 6b, 7b+, 7c+/8a, 7b.

With one word – perfect route! We both onsighted all the pitches.



Conclusion: Verdon enchanted me totally!

A bit in the air, a bit on the rocks and again in France

Last few weeks were so full of different activities, that there was again no time for writing my blog. Simon (Margon) reminded me, that I constantly update my facebook but not my website…Hi’s right. Facebook is in fashion now.



A short resume:

The local Austrian climbers showed me an interesting crag north of Klagenfurt, called Kraig. The rock is king of a sandstone, which is really rare in this area. I was excited! Climbing style reminded me of the one in America – you need to jam! I did two 8a in 2nd go, Akzeptable Tagedosis and Tutu, as well as the crack 1941 graded 7c+. During my second visit I brought my trad rack with me and did it without clipping the bolts. Was FUN!



Rest days I spent in the air, this time we were in Bovec in the heart of Julian Alps, so we were enjoying amazing views while going up and then even more during air stunts.



Just before leaving to France I did Prager Fruhling in Warmbad. It was one of rare 8a+/b routes that were left for me. I was trying it some years ago, but didn't find the solution for the boulder secction. This time I took more time to study the crux and I found a small pocket that solved the riddle.



On Friday I left with the youth team to France, to their biggest event of the year, The World Championship in Valence. We spent two nice climbing days on the rocks of Vercors, Pierrot Beach and Ombleze. The last training we did on the artificial wall Le Mur de Lyon whose owner is ex French competition superstar Francois Petit. The youngsters are in good shape and are looking forward to the competition!

Rich photo gallery Spring-summer 09

In the Photo gallery Spring-summer 09 you can see some of my recent adventures.

The beauty doesn't know the fear - La bellezza non conosce paura

After coming home I continued my climbing in the same style as I did last week in France; in the multipitch routes.



With Italian Andrea Polo from Udine we did first repetition of the route La bellezza non conosce paura (125m, 7c max, 7b obl) in the amazing compact limestone wall of Monte Robon near Sella Nevea.



The route beggins with technically demanding 7a+. If 1,5h approach doesn't wake you up, after this pitch you surely are awake:-)



Then follow two nice 7a and to finish two great 7c. I did all but the last 7c on sight. In the last I was afraid. The bolts are quite far apart, I was pumped, I didn't know where the holds are, the slab below me didn't seem very friendly for my not yet recuperated ankle. I didn't dare to risk and climb on...I fell, I flew with the thought in my mind, to keep the right foot away from the wall. "Landing" was luckily ok, and after Andreas successful attempt (he was in the route one month ago), I gathered courage, pull the rope out and lead this nice pitch once again: la bellezza non conosce paura:-)

Last week in France was amazing!

Granite walls in the massive of Mont Blanc was obviously not destined to me in July, there were storms every afternoon, but luckily France has so many other rocks that I didn’t stay without climbing.



With Nicolas Potard we went instead of firstly planner Petit Clocher du Portalet, to the limestone wall of Balme above Cluses, where we’ve chosen the route “Le grand bleu”, graded 7c, 8a+, 7a+, 8a+, 7b+. First day we did the first two pitches, me flashing the 7c and doing 8a+ in 2nd attempt. The rock is very sharp, so the fingertips became red-violet. With the heat of the sun that comes to wall at 2pm we decided to rappel down and to the rest the next day. The upper 8a+ I found harder, I spent almost half an hour minutes brushing the dust of the holds (not many people climb up there) and finding the very technical methods. Then I did it in first attempt. In the 7b+ it was Nicolas that found the methods, so I had easy work flashing it.



Afterwards I was heading south, to Serre Chevalier, to support the 4 Slovenian girls in the finals. From my competition years this was my favorite competition. The organizers know how to make amazing atmosphere, the wall with unique structures and holds allows route setters to put up routes that demand not just power but also a lot of creativity from climber.



I felt this competition would be special, not only because it was 20th and the last (unfortunately). There was something in the air already a week before when we were talking about it with Natalija (Gros) and Asja (Gosar). Natalija said: “ If you come to cheer for us and if I win, I take you to Club Med holidays” (The winner in Serre Che gets prize money and a one week holydays for 2 in luxury Club Med resorts).



This is called intuition. I was so sure she would win, that I made effort and drove from Chamonix to encourage her, even though the weather became perfect around Mont Blanc…



The evening of the last Serre Chevalier master will stay in my memory in the same way as the one seven years ago, when I won. I can’t find words to describe magic atmosphere that was reigning there. Cheering of the huge crowd, great music, great routes, fireworks, victory of the local young climber Manu Romain in men’s concurrence, even more positive energy in the air…All this gave wings to Natalija to climb her best and almost also from the super final route. More on her website: http://www.natalijagros.si/novice.php?id=148



I was planning to drive to Slovenia after the competition, but talking to 2nd placed in Serre Chevalier, Charlotte Durif, there was a new plan that emerged spontaneously. We went to Verdon, to climb newly opened multipitch routes in the left part of the canyon. First day we went to check Tom, le tueur de slip, 8a+, 8a in 8a, right from the famous tufa Tome et je ris, that I did last year. The route is much longer; it demands different styles of climbing. Charlotte on sighted the first pitch (very technical dihedral), and was close to do the last two that were more bouldery.

Next day we went to the sector Ultime demence to the route that Bruno Clement . Graou recommended us; Papi qui devers, 8a, 7b+, 7c+, 6c. This was surely the most steep multipitch route I've ever climbed. The little backpack that we were hauling up the wall was hanging 15-20 meters of the wall in every pitch! The route follows the dihedral-crack system, the pitch n°3 is the most impressive – 10 meter roof crack!

The route was a bit dusty, I went up the first pitch as first to clean the holds and find the methods, so Charlotte did it in first attempt on top rope, then we were switching leads, Charlotte on sighted the roof, I had to take one rest in it. I would like to come back do free it all, it's so special!

Fast news from France

The rhythm of my 12 days spent in France was very dynamic. No time for writing news on my website!
I began my French tour in Ceuze. In June this famous climbing area isn’t that crowded yet, so it was pleasure to climb there without waiting in the queue under the routes. But it was rather cold up there on almost 2000m of altitude!

The rest day I spent in the dropzone in Tallard. Was great to jump over Ceuze, observing it during the free fall!

I am missing Ceuze’s fresh air now in the Millau area, where I am spending the second part of my trip! It’s hot here! Especially if you climb in the south facing walls of Gorge de la Jonte, where this year’s Petzl rock Trip took place.

The organizers prepared a special challenge for us this time; a 100m long multipitch route, which we had to climb in one pitch! Women’s route, so called Infinity line was graded 7a+, 7b, 7c. The numbers don’t tell everything. The route was new, a bit dusty, without chalk, some holds were braking – kind of a climb I am used from big wall climbing. Where you have to search, be intuitive and check the hold before you put all the weight on it…
I managed to climb the route in first attempt, but I have to thank to other girls that climb before me, put chalk to the lower part on the wall and broke some fragime holds that I might have broken if I had went as first on the wall. Nina Caprez, Chloe Minoret, Florence Pinet and Lynn Hill did the route in the next days. It was a team work!

Now I am moving to Gorge du Tarn to train the Slovenian youth team and then 10 days of Kundalini Yoga near Grenoble, where I will finish my Yoga teacher’s traninig,

On the photo the two towers of the Petzl roc trip Infinity lines.

Successful youth team training on Sardinia

Mojstrana, 4.May
With 13 members of Slovenian youth climbing team and the team coach Borut Kavzar we spent 8 perfect days on Italian magic island Sardinia.
Being a trainer of motivated young climbers (13-18 years old) was easy work. It was hard to stop them at the end of the day. We were climbing 7days out of eight, taking advantage even of the last hours before going on the ferry, bouldering on the granite of San Teodoro.

I chose the climbing areas in a way that the climbing style was varied; from long endurance steel routes of Millenium cave (where Izidor Zupan redpointed Lion de Panshir 8b/b+) to the very technical vertical routes of Jerzu. We visited also Cala Luna, Cala Fuili, Noce secca and El Chorro.

I was also climbing, but only on top rope. My ankle is not doing well yet, and I didn’t dare to fall, hit the wall and hurt it again. It was soooo pumpy at the beginning, after a month without climbing and not putting enough of weight on my feet! But at the end the feelings were better. In Millenum I gathered the courage to lead one very steep route, Il vecchio e il mare 8a, and felt really happy when clipping the anchor.

I don’t have any precise plans for the next month; everything depends on how fast my ankle will heal. In the meanwhile I will climb as much as possible (top rope) to get my endurance back.

Florida

Mojstrana, 7th of March:
In the past years the reason for my travels was always climbing. This time I flew over the Ocean because of skydiving. People were asking me why Florida? The conditions for skydiving there are simply perfect. They have a cheap wintunnel in Orlando (cheap is a very relative expression in this expensive sport – 700USD per hour) and many (14) active drop zones, where you don’t have to wait more then 45minutes for the next jump. Plus the weather there is much friendlier for skydiving then in Slovenia, where winter represents a dead season.

Slovenians were numerous, around 30! First we were training for 6 days in The Indoor Skydiving Center Skyventure Orlando, then we tired to transfer the knowledge we’d got in the wintunnel to the sky over the dropzone of De Land.

First minutes in the windtunnel were very funny for the spectators. I was all around the tunnel and in the Plexiglas. Unable to control the body I felt like a leave in a strong wind. Slowly I got good feelings and the last days we were already doing some 4 way figures. I really learned a lot in the tunnel. When not thinking about the altitude and when to open the parachute, you are more relaxed and you learn faster.

Trainings were rather serious; we began at 6am every morning with our instructors from Slovenian National 4way Team. They were giving us every day more difficult exercises, and were showing us our mistakes during the video analyses after every session.
The movements that you have to execute in the air if you want to move left, right, up, down (slow or fast), were totally new for me, so my head was so full that in 2 weeks climbing didn’t come to my mind not even once, which haven’t happened to me in the last 20 years.

The second part of our journey we spend on the drop zone in Deland. Once you put the parachute on your shoulders everything becomes more serious than in the tunnel. There’s no place for superficiality and mistakes. You always have to check everything and carefully pack the parachute.

I was happy to realize that I learned a lot in the wind tunnel and that I was mastering my body during the freefall much better then during my last jumps back home. At the end we were doing only 2, 4 and big ways.
On the photo you can see a 8 way that was supposed to be a 9way, but I was too fast and finished way under them, so don’t search me on that photo.

Photo: Sven Jseppi

Paris, Casablanca and rainy and snowy Taghia

Casablanca, 25th of October: This journey began a bit different then my previous ones, when I immediately went to the rocks. But after more than a week of city life I am already very inpatient. I can’t wait to be in the nature, to see and touch the rocks of Taghia in Moroccan Atlas.

Last weekend I was enjoying wathchig the European Championship in Paris. Especially because of the success of Slovenian team. Five medals is more than a fulfilled dream. Natalija’s European bouldering title was for me personally the peak of the event in Bercy. Because I know her really well and I knew about her problems in last months, preventing her from climbing as she was able to. Saturday evening was her, she was dancing almost floating over the boulders. Nothing seemed to stop her. More on he site http://www.natalijagros.si

Then I was bouldering in Fontainebleau for two days. The forest sowed with boulders is ideal place for the escape from the crowded Paris. An hour ride by train and there you are in the other world, peaceful, green, with fresh air and countless boulder challenges. Even though I am a “ropeclimber” I really enjoy bouldering in Fontainebleau.

The second chapter of my trip is taking place in Marocco. I came here as a guest on Alex’s Chabot’s Clubs Tour together with the photographer Sam Bie.http://www.alexchabot.com Yesterday we spent a nice evening in the CAF (Clup Alpin Francais) together with local climbers. In the first part of the evening we were climbing on their artificial wall, with a bunch of motivated kids. Then we showed photos and movies from all over the world (India, Mallorca, Luxemburg, Yosemite, Indian Creek, Mont Blanc, Verdon). Discussion at the end showed that the audience was impressed by the projection, and they left with new motivation and dreams in their mind.


Rainiy and snowy Taghia


In ten days that we had on our disposal for climbing in Marocco, we managed to climb two routes (13 pitches) in Taghia and some boulders in Oukaimeden. Most of all we were training our patience and road construction skills. It was a real adventure, kind of a Logan Trophy

We were stopped already on our way to Zaouia, tha last village before a 2,5 hour walk to Taghia. The rainwater swept away five meters of road, not to deep luckily, so we were able to rebuild it with bare hands in less then an hour. In Zaouija we left our rented Logan, put all our baggage on the mules and continued by foot through a nice valley to Taghia. Born in Maroco, living in France, Jonathan Isbeque our guide, driver, translator and my rope partner was describing us great view on the walls around Taghia, but all we could see were the clouds and fog.

As well as the rainy weather also the atmosphere at the “Gite” was mournful. All the climbers that spent there the last week were complaining they couldn’t climb a lot, due to a bad weather.

Next day we took advantage of sunny morning and went to the wall that is the closest to the gite – Paroi de sources. Luckily Jonathan and I had chosen the easiest route, La reve de Aicha 6a+, 250m, because the rain start to shower us three pithces under the top. 6a+ became quite a challenge with the water pouring over every hold.

In the night the rain stopped, the wind dried the rock and we decided to hike up to the Cascade wall, which we could admire down from the village. The accesses to some walls were made more difficult because of the increased amount of water in the torrents. I was astonished by watching Berber kids jumping from stone to stone like chamois, I rather didn’t take a risk, I put my shoes away and wet my legs till the mid thighs, boys even hired the mules that carried them over

Once coming under the wall, seeing the clouds approaching, we chose bolted route Haben oder Sein 6b+, 250m, so we would be able to retreat fast in case of rain. But we were lucky, both ropeparties (Alex Chabot, Sam Biè and Johnatan Isbeque, me) topped out dry. The rain caught us on our way down.

Next morning our view changed colors – the red walls were decorated with white. Snow! And the weather forecast was not optimistic too.
We took a decision to leave Taghia early enough to be able to leave Zaouia before the roads were closed. But our way back to the civilization was not easy. We found our Logan cut from the main road with almost a meter deep ditch. Hmmm. What to do? We activated the villagers, found some planks, a pick and constructed a little bridge. First crux behind us, we still had to pass a 2600m high mountain pass. Snow, fog and muddy road made us silent and 100% concentrated. We were many times close to got stuck, but we were once again lucky. We made it to the Azizal. Uffff, relief!

The last sunny afternoon that was destined for us, we spent discovering new boulders under the skistation of Oukaimeden, 2600m high. Tons of red sandstone boulders brought back the smile on our faces. Felt good to climb again!
Next day – snow, rain and fog again. We left mountains, crossed Marrakech and returned back to Casablanca to enjoy in the friendly atmosphere and hospitality of Club Aplin Francais Special thanks to Philippe Ballet and Jean Usbecque for taking care of us and organizing all the details of our travel.

Even though this was a travel with the least climbing I remember, I will keep Marocco in nice memory.
On the photo: Walls above Taghia, covered by snow. Photo: Sam Biè

Miha

Mojstrana, 5th of October: When I learned the news, that Himalaya took another Slovenian Alpinist, Miha Valič, I was shocked. Not Miha!!!!

He was such a great person! He appeared to me with a smile on his face, when we topped out of Sphinx in The North Face of Triglav in the end of July. The thunders and lightings were threatening us, but I always felt safe with him. Not only because of experiences as a mountain guide, also because of his positive energy and unique sense of humor.

All the climbs we did together were accompanied with laughter. Even if not everything went as planned. When on Črna Burja (multipitch 7c in Osp) he first broke the wooden seat on the hanging belay and later on also a huge stalactite he was making jokes about his “notfreeclimbing” weight.

I was admiring his versatility and unstoppable motivation for training, when he set himself a certain goal. One has to have huge courage only to set a goal as he did. And he managed to realize all of them. To step on the top of all 82 4000-meter peaks in Alps in 102 days, to free climb El Capitan (Free Rider), climb a 8b+ sport route and go every year to one or two expeditions in Himalaya, Patagonia, Kaukaz….to be able to do all that, you have to be Miha.

Before this last expedition on Cho Oyu, where he took his clients as a mountain guide, they had many problems with the papers needed to access the mountain. Till the last moment they didn’t know if they would go. Unfortunately Miha was as good in solving bureaucratic problems as those on the walls.

I think that everybody that knew him knows that he lived for the mountains, walls, routes and that he knew, that once he might stay there forever. Let’s accept his death with the courage and strength as Miha had.

Thank you Miha, for all the funny days in serious routes!

New in the gallery

Mojstrana, 7th of October: In the gallery (summer 08) you can see some new photos from my active summer.

Short visit of Zakopane

16th of September: Last weekend I spent in Poland, in pleasent tourist town under Tatra mountains, Zakopane. I was invited there by the organizers of Mountain Film Festival to give a slideshow about my climbing adventures in America and Mexico. The next day they took me to a nice little (but powerful and steep) climbing area Jaroniec. You can see some photos by Adam Klimek on this link:
http://www.hybryda.pl/martina

The Diamond of Dolomites

Mojstrana, 3rd of September: I was climbing on many walls around the world, but not on the famous rocks just 3-4 hours away from my home; the Dolomites.

I’ve heard, watch or read a lot about them. Most of all aboutTre Cime di Lavaredo ("Three peaks of Lavaredo") and Marmolada. Couple of times I was about to go there, but the bad weather thwarted my plans. This time everything worked out well.

I found (actually he called me) also a perfect climbing partner, Erik Švab from Trieste, who knows The Dolomites like his own pocket (he’s making a new guidebook about Tre Cime now). Since it was my first time climbing in The Dolomites, he chose a route with better quality of rock then the one in Tre Cime. We drove until Val Gardena, above which are rising steep towers, in Eric’s opinion with the best quality of rock in whole Dolomites – Meisules dala Biesces But not to make things too easy, we went on the route that was not freed yet and where you mainly have to place your own protection – 10 pitches long Diamante

I am used to place cams and nuts, but only in obvious granite or sandstone cracks. Looking up the steep orange and gray wall I felt a bit lost. I didn’t know where and when one would be able to put the protection, I even couldn’t see where the route goes. Therefore I happily ceded the lead to experienced Erik. He put some kilos of gear on his harness, also a kind I’ve never seen before and is welcome in pockets of dolomite – tricams.

Also he was climbing slowly, because it was not easy to find the course of the route, the holds and good placements for protection. I think I don’t have to mention that there was no sign of chalk. We were only the 4th party on the route since it was opened in 2005. Also as a second I was crimping the holds more than neccesarry – I wasn’t totally relaxed.

The hardest pitch, which was not freed yet, luckily didn’t turn out to be that hard. After Erik found the holds and the easiest way to climb ( a bit on the left from the pitons), I flashed the pitch and he did it the in 2nd attempt .We agreed that it’s 7a+. Till the top there was one more part that carried grade A1, but it was not harder then 7a.

Despite the fact that I was climbing all but two pitches as second, and that the grade is “just” 7a+, this route means a lot to me. It’s my first route in Dolomites, I got acquainted with new type of rock, style of climbing and protection. I know that I still need a lot of experiences before being able to lead safely and without fear routes like that. Thanks to Erik to open me the world of new climbing dimensions not far from my home.

On the photo Erik on the steep wall of Diamante

Tom et je ris - the most magnific collonette of Verdon

Mojstrana, 23rd of August:
The route Tom et je ris, 8b+ in Verdon is long. And my story about it too:

As well as for Hotel Supramonte (8b on Sardinia that I climbed in 2004) also here the story began with a photo of the route that I saw in a climbing magazine. Interesting, on both photos the climber was Pierto Del Pra. But it was not he that drew my attention. It was the magnificent looking line. The collonette Tom et je ris 8b+ (you can read it Tom &Jerry) in Verdon can be shortly described with »WAW!!!!!«
“I want to go and check this route once!” I said to myself. But among all my climbing trips, the road somehow didn’t take me to Verdon, so I almost forgot about it.

About a month ago I received a mail from Spanish climber Mariona Marti, who I climbed with last year in Siurana and spent we really good time. Her mail went like this: “Hola Martina! For a long time I think about the route in Verdon, a 60m long collonette, Tom et je ris. I only saw some photos and it looks so amazing that I would like to try it someday. But I need another "loca" (crazy girl) to go.... Would you come? «
She didn’t have to ask me twice:-)

I was only a bit concerned, that we wouldn’t have enough time to work out the route. We could start working on 19th of August and I should leave on 22nd, because of the slideshow I promised to have in the local alpine club. Despite the time pressure, we decided it’s worth coming to Verdon, only to try the moves of this perfect collonette.

Along with Mariona came also her boyfriend Laurent Triay (www.triaylaurent.com), who wanted to film two “locas”.

In the evening before our project we went to visit Bruno Clement, the local guide and enthusiastic climber that opened many routes in south of France. Also Tom et je ris. (The route has a name after his son Tom, that was born five years ago, when the route was made). He explained us how to approach the route and find the rappel. The yellow collonette is very remarkable from the belvedere on the right side of the canyon, looks really near, but about 1h 15 of hiking is needed to come to the top of it.
Laurent’s dog Mako helped us carry some of the material needed (a 100m static rope). We were really a perfect team!

When we arrived on the top of it we were both really curious how the collonette looks in reality. When we looked down over the edge of the wall, we didn’t see its end. It’s so long and overhanging. After the rappel, in a little cave on the start of the collonette our eyes were beaming from excitement! It was worth doing 900km of route just to be there!

Next step was to try the moves. We were a bit afraid that there would be a long or too hard move that would stop us, but it went fluidly. We both worked our way up slowly from bolt to bolt (that quite far one from another). The start was hard, on small crimpers, so my forearms were flush-pumped right away; it’s not really friendly for the muscles to start the day on 8b+….

The route is really long, continuous, and once on the top, I could hardly remember the beginning. And the red skin on my fingertips told me there’s no way to work the entire route again that day. The collonette is really sharp and if I wanted to make a good attempt in the next days, I shall economize with my skin. In the late afternoon, when the sun was covered by clouds, we toproped just the last part of the route with three delicate passages on small holds. They were not extremely difficult, but I couldn’t imagine how those moves would feel after 40m of climbing.

Next day I woke up with burning skin on my hands and a subtle pain in the elbow. Inner dialogue started. Shall I rest (and loose one precious day) or go and work on the route some more. But looking at the calendar and seeing that the next day was 21st, solved my dilemma. 21 is my lucky number (I am not so superstitious, but I needed an excuse to take a rest day). Also Mariona was tired, so we spent the day on the beach at the lake St. Croix, swimming, massaging and watching Laurent’s shots, which helped us remember the moves of the route.

Next morning there was some positive tension in the air. During the approach everybody was absorbed in his own thoughts. I felt good, I didn’t think about success/defeat. I was just curious, how does it feel to climb the route without resting on quickdrawers. How far will I come? How much will I be able to recover on the three jugs that are interrupting the collonette?

The problem of warming up I solved by climbing some sections while lowering down. I realized it wouldn’t be easy to link the first part. It’s quite sustained and first rest is only after 10th quickdrawer. Besides that I also forgot the combination of the moves.

After Mariona’s warming up, it was time for the first real attempt. First hard moves went surprisingly well, but a bit higher up I got confused, because I didn’t remember where the holds were and I fell. I did some tickmarcks and lower back down. Mariona’s attempt was also not successful. She had problem with her mind - the exposure and big distance between the bolts prevent her from climbing relaxed.

My second attempt was the last that day. That’s what I decided before I left the anchor. If I do it or not, I would rather keep the skin and energy for next day. The sun was already near, so I had to be fast. I was climbing relaxed, concentrated only on one meter in front of me. I was very on the limit to come over the section where I fell on my first attempt, coming on the jug totally pumped, and with doubts if I would be able to do some moves more. But encouragements from Mariona gave me courage and energy.

Next 15 meters reminded me on crack climbing – doing the same move over and over again – pinch one collonette, dropknee left, pinch the other collonette, drop knee right….The next pause was not as good as the first one, but after some minutes of rest my forearms and mind felt ready for the technical crux waiting for me. Ufff, it was very on the limit again, but luckily a kneebar was waiting for me, so I had opportunity to recharge myself. I was thirsty…I wanted to ask Laurent who was filming me, to give me some water:-)

I was already high and I began to think about success/defeat. After all the effort I really didn’t want to fall. Luckily I was able to stop these calculations and concentrate only on climbing again. One more crux was waiting for me. In the middle of it I should clip, but the rope was already heavy, my fingers were opening, so I decided not to clip it to save power for the moves. It doesn’t make a big difference if you fall 15 or 20m.

The last easy moves to the top, I did with huge smile on my face. I couldn’t believe I just did this perfect line!!! In my 2nd real attempt! Looks like the luck that I was missing on El Nino in may visited me on Tom et je ris!

There were quite some climbers trying the route but giving up. Bruno told me he thought that besides him only two climbers did it. It really demands a lot of endurance, but most of all the endurance of the mind. You need a lot of patience, which is not easy with totally pumped forearms on the first third of the route, when looking up you don’t even see the end…

Mariona has some more days before returning to Spain to get rid of the fear and climb as she’s able to. I am sure she’s able to do the route and I hope she will succeed, so the happy end will be perfect.

Photo: Laurent Triay
www.triaylaurent.com

Zillertal Petzl Roc Trip

Mojstrana, 31st of July: Last week the cows on the meadows in Zillertal were wondering why suddenly so many climbers showed up….

Petzl Roc Trip moved from France to the nice green Austrian valley not far from Innsbruck – Zillertal. Cream of the climbing scene from all over the world gathered there for a climbing festival. To mention just some of them: Lynn Hill, Chris Sharma, Dave Graham, Charlotte Durif, Dani Andrada, Ben Moon, Jerome Meyer, Daniel Dulac, Anna Stohr, Steve Mclure…. In short; the perfect company for perfect atmosphere and positive motivation that pushed un over our limits on routes and boulders.

Unfortunately the weather didn’t cooperate with us very well; rain, rain and some more rain. We had serious problems to find dry routes. Gerhard Horhager, the local climber and the organizer, that has been climbing the rocks over the valley since he was a kid, tending cows there, prepared some nice ultimate routes for us. Nature didn’t allow us to try all of them since they were wet. Women were luckier than men though. One route was dry. Caramello 8b. After a day of working on it, thy sunny Thursday was a “sending “day for four of us. First it was Nina Caprez that did it, after her Charlotte Durif and me. Lynn Hill almost gave up, saying she was too tired from eight climbing days in a row in Arco. But we motivated her to give it one more attempt. And she did it!! It’s really pleasure watching her climbing!

On Saturday the Flash Contest took place. Everybody got a card to fill in the routes that we climbed that day. Certain grade and the type of ascent (flash or redpoint) gave you a certain number of points. Flashing Pepino Pilotino 7c+/8a gave me enough points to win the contest over Charlotte Durif. But in fact I have to thank her to give me such a good beta, so I was able to flash that route. We both got nice wooden cows for the price. (on the photo)

Photo: John Evans; http://www.johnevansphoto.com/

El Gigante

Climbing in Mexico was unforgettable. More about El Gigante you can read in attachment (1.6MB).

Interview (in French) on Planetgrimpe.com

http://www.planetgrimpe.com/grimpeur.php?id=105

Lessons of life

I wanted to ignore the tearing sound in my hand while climbing one 8a on Tenerife (I heard it while having a perfect hand jam). It was not that painful to climb normally, I just avoided jamming later on.
But now I had to face the fact; that the injury is not that innocent. Yesterday during army patrol race I stood up from the shooting place a bit strangely, pushing on the small finger, and I saw the stars so painful it was! It didn’t prevent our team from winning the race, but I went to hospital later. The bones are ok, but one ligament is torn; not so important for “normal” climbing (when you contract the muscles), but very important for jamming (when the muscles are often passive and only ligaments keep the articulations); the one between the metacarpal bones of small and ring finger. The doctor said; 6 weeks of brace. Hmmmm.
It’s not easy to face the truth, so motivated as I am to train for a climbing trip in spring (Mexico (El Gigante), Indian creek and Yosemite). Looks like I will have to train my patience first.

It’s interesting to learn the lessons of live. I think the one I have to learn now is to slow down, take a breath and let the soul speak. My mind is always saying; “you have to train” and my body says”no” as soon as I exaggerate. To hear the solution hidden in the soul I need to be quiet for a while. Easy to say, hard to do.

Photostory from America - 2nd part

Mojstrana, 2nd of November: In the gallery you can take a look at some photos from my autumn climbing in Yosemite and Red river gorge.

Photostory from America

June the 19th: In the gallery you can see some more photos from America.

Tuolomne meadows and Shuteye

June the 3rd: Californian sun is becoming too hot for climbing in Yosemite, therefore I visited two climbing areas on 3000m of elevation. Since I’ve never been so high before, I had some problems with the lack of oxygen. Most of all during the approaches. While climbing I was a bi more pumped than usually, but after three days I was acclimatized.

In Tuolomne meadows I climbed easy routes not more than four pitches long (Oz 5.10d and Blues riff 5.11d). Later the local climbers (who also bolted the routes) took me to Shuteye, an area near Oakhurst. As well as Tuolomne meadows also this area is marked by an amazing landscape. Gray granite domes, black-orange steep walls sometimes covered with green lichen, rounded boulders left by the glaciers in unbelievable balance positions, huge pine trees covered by green moss. There’s no topo for the routes in Shuteye and one needs a huge 4x4 car to get there. It was a real one hour long rally adventure. I probably don’t need to say twice, that the routes there are not polished and full of chalk. It’s a genuine on sight climbing in mostly sport routes, equipped by bolts, in some routes you need some gear. Some sectors are also very steep. Among others I onsighted Atmosphere 5.12d and four pitches long El Portalian 5.11d.

Last climbing days in America I will visit The Needles. They said that the granit there is even better that in Yosemite. I can’t wait!

Progress

Moab, 4th of May; Temperatures in Moab area are getting higher and higher, so the American climbers are slowly leaving the area, moving like nomads in their huge caravans towards Yosemite. We will soon follow them. But before we had to get used to cracks a bit more.

We spent three more days in Indian Creek. We all progressed; Arnaud onsighted Less than zero 5.13a, Stephanie redpointed her first 5.13.a, Ruby’s Café and I did my first 5.12, Annanouki. I am proud also of Scarface, 5.11+, on the photo.

We are all better in finger or hand cracks, offwidths are sill mystery. It’s not hard to jam two hands or fists at once, but how to move them up simultaneously and place the gear at the same time? This we still have to learn.

Before we went once more to Mill Creek, to climb the routes we couldn’t do on the very cold day. So I did the Bowsprit 5.13.a and onsighted Crush the skull 5.12.d.

Tomorrow we are heading towards Yosemite, where Stephanie and Arnaud will try to do the Free Rider. I will start to gather big wall experiences in easier routes.

Photo: Arnaud Petit

Going to America!

April the 14th: Before the X-games in San Francisco 1997, I had paid a day visit to Yosemite National Park. The valley and most of all, the 1000 m high face of El Capitan fascinated me. I took many photos of it, but then with disappointment discovered that the film in my old camera hadn’t moved forward, so no photo came out. Nevertheless all the images stayed well imprinted in my memory and I was saying all those years that I had to go back once more; this time not as a tourist but with the intention to climb over this amazing monolith.

During my competition career I never had time for long “rock travels”. So I went into action immediately after. I took the first opportunity that was offered to me; I will join the experienced French couple, Stephanie Bodet and Arnaud Petit. First we were four to plan our American adventure, but unfortunately Nicholas Khalisz (who climbed with them Salto Angel in Venezuela last year) got injured, so we are only three now. But I am not afraid that because of that we won’t climb enough in those two months.

People are asking me what my plans are. It will be first time that I will be climbing cracks, using friends, nuts, staying more days in a wall, so my respons is, that I go to learn. Only then, when I will adapt to this totally new techniques I will be able to set some more defined goals. I will do my best, that’s for sure!

First we will visit Indian Creek in Utah and later on we will move to California, to Yosemite.
I will let you know how my first crack experiences are going to be.

On the photo: some bouldering on the granite of Maltatal (A) before touching the one in America. Photo: Gino Pavoni