Biography
     


My climbing biography

Sport has allways been a big part of our family life. When I was young we skied and cross country skied together. I showed promise in these sports, so the sport teacher suggested that I train seriously. So I did, but I didn't find it completely satisfying. I also tried my hands in volleyball, but ball and team sports aren't really my thing.


Since I grew up gazing at the peak of Triglav, Slovenia's highest mountain, it's no surprise that I would want to reach it. So I did when I was nine. But walking up seemed to tame so next time my father took me up the North face. Although the route was easy I was scared by the falling rocks, so I didn't like mountain climbing very much. But then, in 1988 when I was 11, I went to youth mountaineering camp in Austria and that's where I fell in love. Not with a boy but with sport climbing. We climbed on an artificial wall and that was something new for me: pushing my limits, swinging on the rope…



After coming home I only wanted to climb. My dad put a piton on the top ob 5m boulder near our house and that was my beginning. Then he started driving me to the cliffs and artificial walls farther and farther from home. In 1990 the first Slovenian junior competition was held. I came in 3rd … among the boys! That was great motivation for more training. Soon I became the member of national team. In 1993 I competed in my first World Cup in Frankfurt and finished at the bottom. But with each experiance I was getting better and better. I reached my first final in Birmingham in 1994, the podium in Courmayeur 1997 and finally the winner's stand in Chamonix 2001. The same year I became World champion. In the next years I was on the podium of the World Cup many times, but most of all I am proud of my victory in Serre Chevaier 2002, where I climbed to the top even in the superfinal.
Year 2003 was a turning point in many aspects; I lost my father in an avalanche. It was a big shock for me, since we were very close to each other. He helped me a lot in my climbing career and made many other sport becoming a part of my life. In comparison to this event, competitions became worthless to me, I started to feel the routine. So in 2004 I decided to left them for a while, and dedicate myself more to rock climbing. The best achievement was a 300m route on Sardinia - Hotel Supramonte, where two pitches are graded 8b. I did the first women ascent.In 2005 I want to compete again as well as raise my limits in rock climbing. My big wish is to go to Yosemite and climb El Capitan, but for this I will have to learn a lot about crack climbing.


Training

I consider rock climbing as the best training, so I go to the cliffs as often as possible. Last year I spent 92 days climbing on rock.. I prefer onsighting to redpointing. In Slovenia we don't have so many good crags so I often travel to Italy, Austria and France. Till now my best achievements are 8a+ on sight and 8b+ after work. I also like big wall climbing, especially in Paklenica (CRO). Before the competition season I do some training for power on a bouldering wall. At home I do pull ups on a bar with the weights (I am naturally weak – when I started climbing I couldn't do a single pull up!). I do a lot of stretching and jogging for recovery. In last years I became also joga fun, because it strengthen the body, mind and soul.

   

 

 

   
         
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