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Biography |
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My climbing biography
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Sport has allways been
a big part of our family life. When I was young we skied and cross
country skied together. I showed promise in these sports, so the
sport teacher suggested that I train seriously. So I did, but I
didn't find it completely satisfying. I also tried my hands in volleyball,
but ball and team sports aren't really my thing.
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Since I grew up gazing
at the peak of Triglav, Slovenia's highest mountain, it's no surprise
that I would want to reach it. So I did when I was nine. But walking
up seemed to tame so next time my father took me up the North face.
Although the route was easy I was scared by the falling rocks, so
I didn't like mountain climbing very much. But then, in 1988 when
I was 11, I went to youth mountaineering camp in Austria and that's
where I fell in love. Not with a boy but with sport climbing. We
climbed on an artificial wall and that was something new for me:
pushing my limits, swinging on the rope…
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After coming home I only wanted to climb.
My dad put a piton on the top ob 5m boulder near our house and that
was my beginning. Then he started driving me to the cliffs and artificial
walls farther and farther from home. In 1990 the first Slovenian
junior competition was held. I came in 3rd … among the boys! That
was great motivation for more training. Soon I became the member
of national team. In 1993 I competed in my first World Cup in Frankfurt
and finished at the bottom. But with each experiance I was getting
better and better. I reached my first final in Birmingham in 1994,
the podium in Courmayeur 1997 and finally the winner's stand in
Chamonix 2001. The same year I became World champion. In the next
years I was on the podium of the World Cup many times, but most
of all I am proud of my victory in Serre Chevaier 2002, where I
climbed to the top even in the superfinal.
Year 2003 was a turning point in many aspects; I lost my father
in an avalanche. It was a big shock for me, since we were very close
to each other. He helped me a lot in my climbing career and made
many other sport becoming a part of my life. In comparison to this
event, competitions became worthless to me, I started to feel the
routine. So in 2004 I decided to left them for a while, and dedicate
myself more to rock climbing. The best achievement was a 300m route
on Sardinia - Hotel Supramonte, where two pitches are graded 8b.
I did the first women ascent.In 2005 I want to compete again as
well as raise my limits in rock climbing. My big wish is to go to
Yosemite and climb El Capitan, but for this I will have to learn
a lot about crack climbing.
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Training
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I consider rock climbing
as the best training, so I go to the cliffs as often as possible.
Last year I spent 92 days climbing on rock.. I prefer onsighting
to redpointing. In Slovenia we don't have so many good crags so
I often travel to Italy, Austria and France. Till now my best achievements
are 8a+ on sight and 8b+ after work. I also like big wall climbing,
especially in Paklenica (CRO). Before the competition season I do
some training for power on a bouldering wall. At home I do pull
ups on a bar with the weights (I am naturally weak – when I started
climbing I couldn't do a single pull up!). I do a lot of stretching
and jogging for recovery. In last years I became also joga fun,
because it strengthen the body, mind and soul.
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